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Ultime News

  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39

     If you want just one, all-purpose watch, our watch tester says Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual might be it. Find out more about in this in-depth review of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 from the WatchTime archives.

     
     
    If you are like me, you sometimes wish you owned a watch that you could wear on every occasion, something that would go well with every outfit and activity, that wouldn’t be ostentatious but would still have character. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39, introduced in 2015, would seem to fit that bill. Its design comes close to perfection. Its sportily elegant appearance goes equally well with a business suit or a polo shirt. And its size (39 mm) is correctly proportioned for nearly every wrist, and is not overly conspicuous.
     
    With gently curving lugs and a broad bezel, the case of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual makes a harmonious impression.
     
    The popular Datejust was the godfather for the shapes of the hands, the indexes and the case. Little blue blocks adjacent to the hour indexes add a touch of excitement and combine with the anthracite-colored and sunburst-finished dial to create an attractive color combination that looks modern, elegant and special.
     
    With gently curving lugs and a broad bezel, the case makes a harmonious impression. All surfaces (except the upper planes of the lugs) are polished. As is almost always the situation on a Rolex wristwatch, the flat sapphire crystal rises above the level of the case, but slopes diagonally downward along its periphery to deflect potential shocks. Proofs of authenticity include Rolex’s crown- shaped logo lasered into the sapphire crystal at 6 o’clock, the name “Rolex” engraved into the metal ring around the dial, Rolex’s crown logo as an applique? at the 12, and the serial number at 6.
     
     
    The crystal has no nonreflective coating and therefore legibility is not always ideal. Luminous material on the hands and on the indexes at 3, 6 and 9 facilitates orientation in the dark. There’s no date display. Its absence assures a tidy-looking dial, but might dissuade some from buying this model. If you’re one of them, Rolex offers the Datejust in 36-mm and 41-mm versions, each with a magnifying lens above the date display, and each at a significantly higher price.
     
    With a water-resistance rating of 100 meters, the Oyster Perpetual 39 is well suited for daily use.
    Due to the lack of a date display, operating the Oyster Perpetual 39 is refreshingly simple. The crown, which unscrews easily, has only two extracted positions: one to wind the mainspring and another to set the hands. This model also provides a convenient stop-seconds function that halts the balance, and thus also the hands, to facilitate to-the-second time setting.
     
    The horizontal bar under Rolex’s crown-shaped logo on the winding button stands for the Twinlock crown. With a water-resistance rating of 100 meters, the Oyster Perpetual 39 is impermeable enough for a sportily elegant watch and is well suited for daily use.
     
    The caseback of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is fully threaded: underneath it is Caliber 3132. It differs from its predecessor (Caliber 3130), which powers the smaller, 36-mm and 34-mm models, in that it has a Parachrom balance spring and Paraflex shock absorption. (Parachrom is an alloy of niobium and zirconium; Paraflex is a patented, specially shaped shock-absorbing device. Both were developed in house.) Caliber 3132 is based on the familiar Caliber 3135 with date display, which ticks inside the Submariner and the Datejust.
     
    Caliber 3132 (visible here with caseback removed) has a Parachrom balance spring and Paraflex shock absorption. Winding is bidirectional.
    Each of these Rolex manufacture calibers is a good choice if you want to own just one watch because watchmakers rate all of them among the best automatic movements on the market. They earn this distinction for several reasons: they’re quite robust; their architecture is designed to maximize longevity; and they can be finely adjusted with extreme precision. That’s why a sturdy balance bridge takes the place of an ordinary balance cock, which is borne on only one side. Two knurled screws can be turned to adjust the vertical play. A Breguet terminal curve on the balance spring contributes to precise timekeeping in every situation, as does the regulator-free fine adjustment mechanism via Microstella nuts on the balance. No matter which way the rotor happens to turn, red anodized wheels in the self-winding subassembly convey its kinetic energy with minimal friction.
     
    The balance spring is unaffected by magnetic fields. This component is also reputed to be able to cope with shocks and vibrations 10 times more effectively than conventional balance springs. The Paraflex shock-absorption system also dampers shocks better than standard shock absorbers.
     
    The movement’s engineering and decoration are equally impressive. For example, a handsome sunburst adorns the automatic bridge and the rotor. The latter boasts Rolex’s characteristic piercings. Other bridges are embellished with circular graining, also known as “perlage.” All bridges and plates are plated with rhodium and their edges are beveled and polished. The polished heads of the screws look quite pretty, too. Rolex regrettably opted for a solid, not transparent, caseback. It would have offered a lovely view of the mechanisms, while simultaneously making life more difficult for would-be counterfeiters. Must you be willing to forego a visible movement if you opt for a one-and-only watch? Each potential buyer will have to answer this question himself.
     
    Caliber 3132 is based on the familiar Caliber 3135 with date display, which ticks inside the Submariner and the Datejust.
    The rate results clearly show which five positions Rolex used when finely adjusting the watch. The results would have been nearly perfect were it not for the rogue value posted in the uncommon “crown left” position. If you eliminate this stray number, you’ll come up with a calculated average deviation of zero seconds per day. Even if you include the “crown left” number, the final results are sufficiently precise.
     
    But what about the price? Debiting $5,700* from your bank account will provide you with the least costly entre?e into Rolex’s world of gents’ watches. You’ll have to pay significantly more ($7,150*) for the 41-mm-diameter Datejust II with date display. Our tested watch offers the best cost-benefit ratio of all Rolex models.
     
    Of course, the concept of a “one-and- only watch” is a myth. If you’re like me, you’ll always become infatuated with another watch. You’ll yearn for it and gaze longingly at it until you finally possess it. But if you were damned to a life of horological monogamy and were permitted to own just one, then the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 would be a very good choice – assuming, of course, that you’re willing to do without a date display or a transparent back. If so, then this model’s go-with-every-outfit-and-every-occasion styling, large-enough-but-not- too-large dimensions, and robustly well- engineered self-winding movement will ensure that your wrist is well equipped for whatever the day – or the night – has up its sleeve.
     
    FINAL RESULTS:
    SPECS:
    Manufacturer: Rolex SA, Rue Franc?ois- Dussaud 3–7, CH-1211 Geneva, Switzerland
    Reference number: 114300 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
    Movement: Self-winding manufacture Caliber 3132, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, stop-seconds function, Paraflex shock absorption, Parachrom balance spring with Breguet terminal curve, Glucydur balance with Microstella nuts for fine adjustment, 48-hour power reserve, diameter = 28.5 mm, height = 5.37 mm
    Case: 904L stainless steel; flat, but not nonreflective, sapphire crystal; threaded Twinlock crown; fully threaded 904L stainless-steel back; water resistant to 100 meters
    Bracelet and clasp: 904L stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with folding Oysterclasp
    Rate results (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours):
    Dial up +2
    Dial down +2
    Crown up 0
    Crown down -1
    Crown left -5
    Crown right +2
    Greatest deviation of rate 7
    Average deviation 0
    Average amplitude:
    Flat positions 293°
    Hanging positions 263°
    Dimensions: Diameter = 39 mm, height = 11 mm, weight = 131 grams
    Price: $5,700*
     
    SCORES:
    Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 points): The tidily crafted steel bracelet culminates in an easy-to-use folding clasp. 9
    Operation (5): The crown is easy to operate; a stop-seconds function contributes to speedy, simple and accurate time setting. 5
    Case (10): The well-crafted steel case has neatly polished and satin-finished sides. 9
    Design (15): Sportily elegant, contemporary design 12
    Legibility (5): The reflective crystal detracts somewhat from the legibility. 4
    Wearing comfort (10): Nothing pinches or scratches: notwithstanding the steel bracelet, the wearing comfort is very high. 10
    Movement (20): Robust, precise and handsomely decorated 18
    Rate results (10): The rate is sufficiently accurate, but connoisseurs are accustomed to even better performance from a Rolex. 7
    Overall value (15): The most affordable choice in a men’s-size Rolex; the cost- benefit ratio is very good. 13
    TOTAL: 87 POINTS
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  • Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

     Tudor once again expanded its critically-acclaimed Black Bay collection at Baselworld 2018. Since its initial release in 2012, the brand has almost every year sought to grow the Black Bay’s appeal, most recently by shifting from an ETA movement to an in-house caliber, adding many different color and material options, and by slightly modernizing the dial — replacing the vintage Tudor rose logo with the contemporary Tudor shield. Yet while the Rolex-owned company has staked itself a place in the modern market, the Black Bay has always been a vintage-inspired piece. As such, in addition to releasing this year a new “pepsi” bezel GMT that continues the collection’s modern expansion, the brand also released the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which works to channel the early dive watches the contemporary collection is based upon.
     
     
    The specific watch the Fifty-Eight is loosely based on is the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924 “Big Crown” (pictured above, via Bob’s Watches). This watch was released four years after the initial Tudor Submariner Ref. 7922, and was characterized by the large, 8-mm crown from which it derives its nickname, its relatively compact size at 37 mm (although later models increased to 39 mm), and the red triangle at the top of its rotating bezel. In recent times, the 7924 has been steadily increasing in price on vintage-watch markets, and so Tudor’s inspired release in the modern Fifty-Eight will likely receive a warm welcome from many enthusiasts.
     
     
    Featuring a 39-mm-diameter, 11.9-mm-thick steel case with a polished and satin finish, the new watch is more in line, size-wise, with its vintage predecessors than the original Black Bay (41-mm by 14.75-mm). On its side is an enlarged crown signed with the modern Tudor rose, while the dial is surrounded by the black-and-gilt unidirectional bezel with its distinguishing red triangle at its top. The dial uses a traditional Tudor Submariner configuration, with an applied triangular, circular, or rectangular markers for each of the hours; then with printed gilt accents in an outer chapter ring, Tudor shield logo towards the top, and some of the watch’s technical descriptors towards the bottom. Indicating the time is Tudor’s iconic snowflake hand configuration, featuring the uniquely shaped hour hand from which it draws its name, a sword minute hand, and a diamond-tipped, lollipop-style seconds hand.
     
     
    Within the Fifty-Eight is Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5402 (above), a movement produced specifically for the smaller diameter and thickness of the new watch. The movement has a 70-hour power reserve, and is hidden behind a solid caseback that helps to provide the watch its 200-meter (660-ft) waterproof rating. The new watch will be available starting in July, and will be priced at $3,250 on a leather or fabric bracelet, or at $3,575 on an Oyster-style riveted steel bracelet.
     
     
    The new watch, like the Black Bays that have preceded it, has vintage influences throughout its design; although the Fifty-Eight is the first in the collection to credit a specific historical reference for its design, rather than the general early era of Tudor Submariners. For this reason, there are some apparent parallels between the Fifty-Eight and the vintage Reference 7924, notably in the smaller diameter and thickness of the watch at 39 mm, the large unaccented crown (past Black Bays have featured a small colored ring on the crown’s stem), red triangle at the top of its bezel, and the gilt accents throughout. Also, the sapphire crystal and dial beneath it both use a vintage dome construction—although the historical watch used an acrylic crystal, not a sapphire one, to protect the face — and the hour markers and outer minute ring are virtually identical to those on the original piece.
     
    While the watch is a more historically accurate homage compared to past Black Bays, Tudor has taken a few modern liberties to craft the piece as a uniquely modern watch. Outside of contemporary finishing practices, the case and crown use Tudor’s modern Black Bay case construction, which itself is similar to the historical Oyster design but is slightly flatter and less compacted. As well, the original 7924 had a 37-mm case, “Mercedes”-style hour hand with circular lollipop seconds hand, and used the vintage Tudor rose for its signing, whereas the modern piece has opted for the larger 39-mm case, snowflake and diamond hands, and shield logo. However, it should be noted that the original 7924 did take on a larger case size and different hand styles later in its production run, and the Tudor shield is the brand’s distinguishing mark today, so it would be an unfair critique on the watch to quibble on these shifts in style.
     
    It is an interesting move for the brand to produce a reference that hosts more vintage styling than the past Black Bays — which are themselves credited with being some of the best homage pieces on the market — yet it speaks to the wide appeal Tudor is looking to generate for the collection. As such, the Fifty-Eight is likely to generate strong appeal among those vintage-geared aficionados looking for a smaller iteration of the Black Bay, but have yet to be interested in past versions. The design of this newest piece also leaves a good amount of room for expansion of the collection in the future, especially in materials and coloring. Even the 39-mm sizing leaves the brand open to produce a 37-mm model in the future, which it very well could market not just for its vintage appeal but as part of an expansion geared towards the women’s market. Regardless, with the Fifty-Eight alongside the new GMT, Tudor has again displayed itself to be an expert operator among the crowds of brands populating Baselworld, and has positioned itself well in the minds of vintage watch lovers and more modernly focused watch buyers alike.
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  • Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue

     Tudor, to its credit, has become one of the leading watch brands for historical recreations and re-interpretations of vintage watches in past few years. And this accomplishment, while exciting for many consumers looking to buy a vintage-inspired watch, or specifically a historically fostered Tudor, is a direct result of the successful designs Tudor produced alongside its sister brand Rolex during the previous century. From the popular Tudor Heritage Black Bay diver, to the Heritage Ranger sports watch, to the more recently released Heritage Advisor alarm watch, Tudor continues to take its most popular designs from its history, and produce contemporary watches with the same codes.
     
     
     
    The same is true with the very popular Tudor Heritage Chrono series, first released at Baselworld 2010; the Blue variant we’ll be covering today was released in 2013. This modern watch is based heavily on the Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph (Ref. 7169/0, above) produced from 1971 to 1977 — a very funky 1970s chronograph that is today one of the most sought after vintage Tudors available. This original ‘70s timepiece, characterized by its very distinctive dial, rotating blue bezel, and its nickname “Monte Carlo,” for its inspiration and role in Formula 1 racing, is out of reach for many vintage-watch enthusiasts, so Tudor introduced this modern Heritage Chrono to fill the modern craving for this now-famous reference.
     
     
     
    The modern Tudor Heritage Chrono (Ref. 70330B, above), as you will notice, is strikingly similar to the original Ref. 7169/0. With a 42-mm Oyster case and thick bracelet, this watch protects its inner workings with interesting steel-grip-covered screw-down pushers and crown. Within is the Tudor Caliber 2892 — a Tudor-finished ETA 2892 base with a Dubois-Dépraz 2054 module attached — a solid workhorse of a movement engineered for daily wear and holding a 42-hour power reserve. Within the rotating 12-hour blue bezel used for tracking two time zones is the fascinating, heritage-inspired dial. With a blue outer minute ring with orange Arabic numerals at every five-minute mark, two subdials for 45 chronograph minutes (at 9 o’clock) and small seconds (at 3 o’clock), and a host of other accents like the baton hands and thick hour markers, the heritage of the original “Monte Carlo” shines through brightly. Other features to notice are the date window at the 6 o’clock position, the orange central-seconds chronograph hand, and the corporate Tudor Shield logo at the top of the dial. This watch can be found at various dealers for around $3,300.
     
     
     
    In comparison to the original reference this modern watch is based upon, if you were to put the two next to one another and ask a layperson to point out the vintage model, he or she might not have an easy task. From the graduated 12-hour blue bezel, to the endless orange, blue, and off-white accents on the dial, this modern watch certainly has worked to faithfully reproduce the design elements that have become so popular among vintage “Monte Carlo” collectors today. The few notable differences are the switching of the subdials (45-min now at the 6 o’clock, small seconds at the 3 o’clock), the absence of the “cyclops” date window over the 6 o’clock date indicator, and the modern steel grip of the crown and pushers as compared to the previous ones with a more historically traditional Rolex/Tudor design. There are also a few other small changes, such as an overall more modern finishing, a thicker and more integrated steel bracelet (with the option of a Tudor produced NATO-style strap, as above and below), and slightly modified baton hands typical of the modern Tudor brand.
     
     
     
    In the past few years, Tudor has set out to produce an array of vintage-inspired timepieces for the fast-growing market of consumers looking for a “watch with a story.” It is this strategy that has brought Tudor, along with a few other brands, a considerable degree of modern success among watch aficionados. While the brand continues to produce more contemporary pieces like the Pelagos, North Flag, and Fastrider Black Shield to push its designs forward, Tudor still puts much of its focus on paying homage to its history (and attracting a fair amount of collectors’ attention) with its more historical series.
     
    The Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue has played an integral part in this strategy, and has offered many consumers a piece of the “Monte Carlo” history and look for a fraction of the vintage model’s price. Add this series to the even more popular Rangercollection, and to the almost universally admired Tudor Heritage Black Bay dive watches, and you’ll find that the brand is catering to almost every segment of watch lovers. Now it is only a question of which historical series Tudor will revive next, and how soon it plans to do so.
    For our most recent article, in which I compare the Alpina Seastrong Diver Heritage to its vintage counterpart, click here.
     
    Caleb Anderson is a freelance writer for various publications. Since first learning about horology, he has garnered extensive knowledge on vintage watches, and spends much of his time sharing his opinions within the field. Currently located near New York City, he is a persistent student in all things historical, a writer on many topics, and a casual runner.
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  • Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Seiko Marinemaster Professional 1000M

     This week we take a look at a watch that is either one of the most beloved or — I suppose the word would be unloved — models on the market today, depending on whom you ask. I am talking about none other than the Seiko “Tuna,” or (as it more commonly listed today) the Seiko Marinemaster Professional 1000m Automatic Diver.
     
     
     
    This watch is one of the most important in Seiko’s long history of diving watches, a contemporary version of one of the models most appreciated by the brand’s enthusiasts, commonly known by the nickname “Tuna” or “Tuna Can” (as a result of its tuna-can-like case appearance). The lineage of these Seiko divers began in 1965 with the brand’s first diving watch (pictured below): a steel, automatic, 150-meter water-resistant piece with long, sturdy lugs, a large crown, and massive rectangular hour markers. This piece, regarded among enthusiasts as a cherished relic in the history of both horology and diving, was quickly replaced by better-performing models over the next few years — among them the Professional Diver’s 600m watch, also known as the world’s first Seiko Tuna (pictured above).
     
     
     
    This first Seiko Professional Diver’s 600m, released in 1975, offered a variety of world-class improvements not previously seen in diving watches that preceded it. These included its being the first dive watch that used a titanium case, as well as one of the first that used a two-layered case for better protection and which allowed for the lack of a helium valve. Its innovative rubber strap expanded or contracted to best fit a diving suit at various depths. This piece, as Seiko is apt to point out, was granted more than 20 patents upon its release, and was well manufactured for the abuse that such tool watches endured during dives.
     
     
     
    Today’s modern Seiko Tuna, the Ref. SBDX013 (above) — one among a few other modern references including the SBDX011 and SBDX014 (below) — is a watch with some very obvious historical influences. This 48.2-mm beast has a screwed-in, integrated titanium-and-steel case, housing inside it the highly accurate automatic Seiko Caliber 8L35, a rather durable automatic movement, produced in-house by Seiko. The movement boasts a 50-hour power reserve and a hack function via the screw-down crown. On top of this undeniably masculine case sits a familiar unidirectional diving bezel, and further within the bezel is a dial with a design that is uniquely Seiko. The dial features highly luminescent circle hour markers, with a rounded triangle at the 12 o’clock mark, a date indicator at the 3 o’clock position, and the watch’s description toward the bottom of the dial. Also note the fascinating Seiko-specific hour and minute hands, along with the classic lollipop seconds hand sweeping over the dial. This piece is currently listed on Seiko’s website for $3,300, but it can occasionally be found for a bit less at a dealer.
     
     
     
    Comparing this modern watch to its vintage counterpart, it would be easy to forgive someone who confused the two. From the interesting dial, hands, bezel, case, and even to the rubber strap, this modern Seiko diver makes no attempt to hide its lineage within a modern styling. Truly, the two watches share much more commonalities than they share differences. For example, notice the slight dips towards the upper right and lower left parts of the front-facing case. These dips are to assist deep-sea divers better move the bezel underwater, while the non-dipped parts of the case add further protection from underwater mayhem. This is a very small detail, but one shared nonetheless by both the historical and contemporary pieces.
     
     
     
    The only obvious differences between the two watches are in the functionality of their movements (modern technology and manufacturing does bring better accuracy), and in the depth rating improvement from 600 meters on the vintage model to 1000 meters on the new. Of course, since humans can only dive unassisted to depths of about 275 meters at most, this enhanced depth rating is more about bragging rights than field practicality. Other differences include a more matte and professional-looking finishing on the case, a slightly smaller case diameter (from 51 mm to 48.2 mm), a smaller black crown as compared to a previously steel one, and a change in the tool needed to unscrew the four pieces holding the watch together.
     
     
     
    Most brands with historically inspired watch series have to actively work towards developing such vintage re-interpretations or recreations. This cannot be said for the Seiko Tuna. This is a watch that, through the past few decades, has more or less stuck to the design codes that first made it appealing to deep-sea dwellers and desk divers alike around the world. And this element of consistency is no mistake or coincidence: when Seiko first produced this watch in 1975, the company offered what it felt was the best diving watch available based purely on the watch’s design and construction. Most likely, Seiko has not yet found a watch design more effective to withstand the pressures at the very bottom of the ocean. The only changes that have come to the watch have been minuscule and for practical purposes — a smaller, more hidden crown; a brighter and more luminescent dial; a slightly smaller case so the watch can be worn under a dress shirt cuff rather than just around a dive suit sleeve. Aesthetically, the modern Seiko Tuna may not be the most universally loved watch out there, but it is undeniably, and deservedly in my opinion, regarded as the heir to one of dive watch history’s great icons as well as a solid example of a contemporary watch with historical ties.
    For our most recent article, in which I compare the modern Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue to its vintage counterpart, click here.
     
    Caleb Anderson is a freelance writer for various publications. Since first learning about horology, he has garnered extensive knowledge on vintage watches, and spends much of his time sharing his opinions within the field. Currently located near New York City, he is a persistent student in all things historical, a writer on many topics, and a casual runner.
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  • Tudor’s New Black Bay Chrono for the New Zealand All Blacks

     The Rugby World Cup is a men’s rugby union tournament contested every four years between the top international teams. As the official timekeeper of the Rugby World Cup 2019 in Japan (September 20 to November 2), Tudor will equip all participating referees with a Black Bay Chrono in Steel (see WatchTime’s review from 2018).
    The new Black Bay Chronograph Dark, a limited edition celebrating the brand’s partnership with the New Zealand All Blacks.
    More importantly: As a result of Tudor’s partnership with the New Zealand All Blacks and to mark the Rugby World Cup beginning September 20th in Japan, the Swiss watch brand just launched the Black Bay Chrono Dark (Ref. 79360DK): a 41-mm, blacked-out version of the chronograph – matching the All Blacks’ famous jersey – fitted with the COSC-certified MT5813 in-house caliber with column wheel and vertical clutch. The watch is limited to 1,181 pieces (the number of players that have served the legacy of New Zealand’s national rugby team since its creation in 1903); the one number that will not be available to collectors is #1115, which belongs to Beauden Barrett, who holds the world record for consecutive wins since his first test (19 wins from 19 tests).
     
    The Black Bay Chronograph Dark is most likely the first openly available limited edition from Tudor with an individual number (there have been limited editions and single pieces before).
    The New Zealand All Blacks, whom the Swiss brand has had a relationship with since 2017, won the previous Rugby World Cups in 1987, 2011, and 2015. This year they will be defending their title for a third consecutive victory at the event.
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  • Tudor Vintage Design + Breitling Base Caliber = New Tudor Black Bay Chronograph

     Two of the watch world’s heavyweights have pooled their expertise to develop one of Baselworld 2017’s most buzzed-about new releases. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph adds a new, sporty complication to the popular Black Bay collection, and does so with the aid of a new movement sourced not from big brother Rolex but from stopwatch specialist Breitling.

     
    Tudor Black Bay Chronograph on riveted steel bracelet
     
     
    Outwardly, the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph boasts all of the vintage-inspired features that Black Bay fans have most likely come to expect, plus some intriguing extras: the hallmark “Snowflake” hands, the domed dial and crystal, the large winding crown from the 1958 Tudor “Big Crown” dive watch. As it does on other Black Bay models, an engraved, black lacquered Tudor rose emblem appears on the case’s screw-down crown, here flanked by chronograph push-pieces. These characteristic elements are joined by two hollowed-out subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock for the 45-minute chronograph counter and running seconds indication, respectively, and a date window at 6 o’clock. The 41-mm, 200-meter water-resistant stainless steel case is topped by a fixed, circular satin-brushed bezel with an engraved tachymeter scale. The chronograph pushers are said to have been inspired by those used on early Tudor chronograph watches.
     
     
     
    Tudor Black Bay Chronograph on brown leather strap
    The real intrigue, for watch aficionados, lies on the inside of the timepiece: the high-performance Caliber MT5813 movement, based on Breitling’s automatic, integrated-chronograph Caliber B01. Introduced in 2009, on the occasion of Breitling’s 125th anniversary, as its in-house base movement of the future, Caliber B01 and its various descendants have served ably in many Breitling watch models since. The recent collaborative effort by the two brands — under a veil of secrecy right up until the eve of Baselworld — has yielded a two-fold result thus far. Tudor gets the B01 Caliber on which to build its first “independent” chronograph movement, while Breitling in turn acquires the use of Tudor’s own in-house base movement, Caliber MT5612, for its Superocean Heritage II model, which we will cover separately.
     
    The good news for prospective owners of the Black Bay Chronograph is that the renamed (and revamped) Tudor Caliber MT5813 brings to the table all the considerable attributes of the B01: bidirectional winding, a column-wheel controlled chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch, a 70-hour power reserve in a single mainspring barrel, a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, a speedy 28,800-vph frequency, and a COSC chronometer certification.
     
    Tudor Caliber MT5813, based on Breitling Caliber B01
    The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph is available with either a brown leather strap or a steel bracelet whose design is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets on Tudor watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. The visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet for attaching the links, and the distinctive, stepped construction are nods to these bracelets of the past. Both versions of the watch also come with a special blue denim-style fabric strap, made specially for Tudor’s Heritage watches on 19th-century Jacquard looms by a 150-year-old family company based in Switzerland’s Saint-Etienne region. Tudor says that the watches will be available in July; prices are $4,725 on the leather strap and $5,050 on the bracelet.
     
    Both versions of the watch come with an additional denim-style fabric strap.

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Mer 24 Giugno 2020
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39

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Ven 05 Giugno 2020
Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

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